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After pouring
Water Bath is
optional - Allow the mold, now containing liquid wax, to set for about
a 5 minutes before placing in the water bath. You will make a
water bath with the second pot. Fill with 1 1/2 - 4 inches of
water, depending on mold size. You will put your mold inside a
freezer bag and place in water bath. You may need to weight the
mold down or use less water if mold does not want to sit in bath. This
will allow any air bubbles to rise. Gently tapping the sides of
the mold will also help. The water bath should be cool, not
cold. Be extra careful to keep water out of the mold when
lowering into the bath.
About 30 minutes
after pouring you will notice a well forming in the cooling wax.
You must insert a slender poking rod (wick rods work great for this)
to break the skin on the cooling wax and the relieve surface
tension. You may need to poke and relieve surface tension
several more times depending upon the size of the mold. Allow at
least 20 minutes between each poke and refill, less if water bathing.
Refill this well
with the wax you set aside earlier, pour at approximately 190 degrees.
Refill the well only up to within 1/4 from the original pour.
The remaining ridge may be trimmed or melted off easily after removal
from the mold.
The mold may be
removed from the water bath after the second refill. The
remaining cooling may then be continued either at room temperature, or
in the refrigerator. If cooled at room temperature, keep the
mold away from drafts, and wait until the mold is cool to the touch
before removing candle from mold.
You may hurry the
cooling process considerably by placing the mold in the refrigerator.
A word of warning: thermal shock occurs when a candle
cools too quickly, and fractures internally. Your refrigerator
is cooler at the bottom, so rotate your candles every half hour.
Remove the candle if the mold is cold to the touch. Also don't
put the candle in the freezer, as it will cool and contract too
quickly, and most certainly fracture.
You should not
attempt to remove the candle until the mold is cold to the touch.
By looking closely at the edge of the candle, where it meets the mold,
you will see a small space; this is where the candle has released from
the mold. To extract the candle, first remove the wicking pin or
the mold sealer and wick screw. Hold your hand over the opening
to catch the candle, should it slide out. Carefully hold the
mold by the base, and the candle should drop into your hand. If
not tap the sides of the mold, this should help to release any stuck
spots.
If the candle does
not release, do not pound on the mold. Any dents will cause the
candle to become stuck in the mold and the mold will be ruined.
Place the candle in the refrigerator for 20 minutes and then try
again. If it will not release, as a last resort only, pour hot
water over the mold. This will soften the wax and normally ruins
the candle but does permit removal, without damaging the mold.
Be sure to completely dry any water from the mold.
You can always melt
a candle out of a mold, but a dent in a mold is forever.
To remove a seam
line on the candle surface, use a dull knife or metal spatula.
Hold it at a right angle to the candle and slide it down the seams.
To provide added luster and to protect your candle from finger marks,
apply spray gloss to the surface.
To make the candle
stand up straight you may have to square of the base by using either
of the following methods
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Cutting and
trimming with a knife. |
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Rotating the
candle in a heated pan, melting off the irregularities, and
leveling the base. |
If the surface
blemishes appear on your finished candle, due to excessive handling or
other reasons: buff lightly with an nylon stocking, piece of felt, or
waxed cloth to restore the sheen. |